Sunday, August 4, 2019

The Need for Speed!


  Putting surfaces have evolved immensely since the first golf course in Scotland. Back then all that was needed was a stick and a pebble. Green speeds were unheard of and so was putting in general. Fast forward to the 1930s and a man named Edward Stimpson came up with an idea to measure green speed using a device made of wood that is now called the stimpmeter.  In his 1937 article "Introducing the Stimp"  Stimpson  reported readings from three different clubs and the average was 2.5 feet. In the seventies the USGA came out with their own model of Stimpson's invention and made it available to greenskeepers. They recorded averages around 6' from over 100 courses nationwide.  Augusta National was under 8' and pebble beach was around a  7.2'. My, how times have changed! Today, regular play on the PGA tour is around 12' with major championships running between 14’    and 15’.

 At WHCC, the agronomy team strives to maintain a speed that is enjoyable for golfers and one that does not stress out the golf greens to the point of death. This is a hard objective to achieve. Many factors are weighed on a daily basis such as rainfall amounts, temperature extremes, time constraints, spray applications, equipment used, moisture levels, grass types, and the list could go on and on.  There are six ways to achieve higher green speeds and they are as follows:

1. Mowing height. This is fairly obvious, the lower the height of cut the faster the green speed. However, this is also the easiest and fastest way to lose an entire green. Greens need leaf material in order to produce photosynthesis and growth. Mowing grass short decreases photosynthesis and if cut too short, especially during hot weather and increased stress, entire greens will be lost. According to the USGA the current recommendation is to mow as high as possible to achieve the desired green speed. Sometimes it is necessary to increase the mowing height to maintain healthy greens.

2. Rolling. This has a big impact on green speed. According to our current data rolling increases speed by around a foot. According to Thomas Nikolai, agriculture professor at Michigan State University, there are many benefits to rolling such as, height of cut can be raised and green speed retained, decreased cutworm activity, decreased dollar spot disease, smoother putting  surfaces,  and less weed presence. However, it also increases the need for aeration due to increased compaction.

Heavier Salsco roller

Light Weight roller



3.  Cultural Practices. Topdressing, aerating, and verticutting all impact speed. The more of  these  practices we perform the firmer and faster the speeds will become.

Topdressing on #5 green
                 

             
4. Irrigation/Moisture content. The drier the greens the faster the greens. However, this needs to be weighed against the turf's water requirements and daily evapotransporation rates. High humidity can also negatively affect speed with lower humidity producing faster results. Drainage is of the utmost importance on putting surfaces and with 10 greens not up to USGA drainage requirements those green speeds will be negatively affected. Also, shade from trees affects how quickly and efficiently water is absorbed and drained. We are currently looking at ways to better improve this area including: possible removal of trees affecting sun exposure, watering less, and increasing our hand watering regimen.

Pin Oak casting shade onto #16 green during morning hours





 5. Plant growth. The less growth of the plant the quicker the ball will roll. Mother nature helps us in this area after the first frost when the grasses' growth slows down. Additionally, during the growing season we use bi-weekly spray applications of Plant Growth Regulators to slow down growth and increase stimpmeter readings.  Also, higher amounts of nitrogen decrease speed; however nitrogen must be supplemented to help the turf survive the daily stresses of play and maintenance. To combat this issue we fertilize heavier in the spring and fall with granular fertilization and spoon feed the turf with light nitrogen spray applications during the summer months.


6. Type of grass used. L-93 bentgrass mixed with poa annua  is what the majority of our putting surfaces are made of. It can be cut at extremely low heights, but there are newer varieties that are being produced that have better stress resistance and can take lower mowing heights.

  This season, the agronomy team, has had a plan in place to increase speeds and the results have been very positive. Stimpmeter readings are taken at least three times a week on 7 of the 18 greens. We choose greens, and areas on those greens, that are flat that give us the most accurate readings. We roll two balls in one direction measure the distance and repeat the process going in the opposite direction and then take the average of the two. All the green's averages are added together to make a daily average reading. Our current plan has increased the green's speeds significantly from last season. We share these results monthly with the greens committee and make adjustments as needed. Currently our 3-month average is 10.5', which is a good number for regular play. This year is somewhat of a test to see what the greens can handle and make a plan moving forward. The summer months are the hardest time for cool-season grasses, and we are currently evaluating the greens conditions during this stressful time. We are seeing an increase in localized dry spots from these increased speeds and extreme heat. Many greens at WHCC were constructed in 1912 and other clubs in our area have newer and better draining greens. This is definitely an area that needs to be addressed if higher readings are desired. The need for speed is a trend that looks like it will be around for a while and the agronomy team is committed to providing the members the best greens possible.

For more informtion on green speed from the USGA click here 

Brad Piecuch
Assistant Superintendent/Horticulturist

Wednesday, July 3, 2019

Hot is not Cool!

 One thing all cool-season grasses have in common is their inability to tolerate hot temperatures. When the air and soil temperatures heat up turf starts to decline. 90 plus degree soil and air temperatures literally cook the cells of the cool season plants. Add in the abundant amount of rainfall that we received in the spring and early summer and we got a recipe ripe for disease problems. We have been keeping up with the fungicide spray applications but the monsoons that fell reduced some effectiveness of the sprays. We have started to see some evidence of this, especially, in rough areas. They strike quickly, in the right conditions, and sometimes happen overnight.  Pythium blight, brown patch, anthroacnose, dollar spot, summer patch, and gray leaf spot are the summer diseases that are quick to pounce. Even though the summer pathogens gave the course a good right cross; we countered with different chemicals and earlier application intervals to keep most areas of the course disease free.

Pythium blight in #8 rough. Chemical application was applied as soon as detected.



Dollar spot on #9 approach. The disease has been suppressed. 

 Another factor giving the agronomy team, and the golf course, a good amount of stress this time of year is our "good friend" poa annua. Poa annua or annual bluegrass is a winter annual grass that typically goes to seed in the spring, dies out in the summer heat, then germinates again in the fall. It is also extremely susceptible to many of  the summer diseases especially anthracnose. We do strive to suppress and limit its growth in the spring with PGRs; however it is almost impossible to fully eradicate. We keep as much of it green and alive, as possible, in the fairways, tees and greens during the summer by keeping adequate moisture in the soil, and syringing ( keeping the soil temperatures down), but some of it will die and cause dead patches to occur. The great (or bad) thing about poa is that when the days get shorter and the temperatures cool off, the seed, that was put out in the spring, will germinate and fill back in the bare areas.

 The grounds department will do everything possible to keep as much of the cool-season turf alive and healthy but we could use everyone's help during the summer. We ask that all golfers try and limit the amount of time that carts are in the fairways, and use the ninety- degree rule when entering and exiting during days of extreme heat (close to or over 90 degrees). On these days the grass is so stressed simply driving over them can cause severe damage. This type of damage usually occurs during the middle of the day when the sun is at its peak and the temperatures are the highest. Limiting cart traffic to the rough as much as possible will greatly help improve fairway conditions.

Golf cart traffic damage, due to the hot conditions, on #11 fairway

There is some grasses that absolutely thrive in these conditions and they are the warm-season varieties.  Zoysia and Bermuda are the most popular of these types for our area. We do have a decent amount of Bermuda at WHCC and it is basking in the heat and sun as I write this. It looks lush and healthy and is a good plant for southern facing slopes where many other grasses struggle in the summer months.

Bermuda grass on #15 lovin it!


The irrigation system is now up and running and is being utilized frequently. The wet conditions in the spring and early summer caused many of the turf roots to become shallow. They were acclimated to the abundant moisture close to the surface and did not need to grow deeper. Once the heat cranked up and the rainfall stopped the turf needed frequent irrigation cycles to keep the roots moist in the top soil layers. Even with the nightly use of the irrigation system, certain areas will need more water then others-for example, mounds, localized dry spots (LDS), and high traffic areas. The most efficient way to combat this is through hand watering. So do not be surprised to see many of us out with hoses irrigating and syringing problem turf areas.

LDS starting to form on #8 green


The horticulture crew was able to complete the landscape design behind #14 tee last month. The bed containing spruce trees and white pines located behind #17 green was cleaned out and mulched with pine straw. The fence behind #14 tee was extended. Emerald green arborvitaes and climbing hydrangea vines were the plants used to screen the unsightly view of the fence. The use of the pine straw gives it a very natural look and it will continue to grow and fill in providing a beautiful addition to the golf course for years to come.






Cool temperatures, and heads, will eventually prevail as it does after every summer season at WHCC, but until then, the grounds crew will utilize all the tools available to keep the cool-season grasses cool (and alive) in the summer heat.


Brad Piecuch
Assistant Superintendent/Horticulturist
















Saturday, June 8, 2019

June Grounds Update

Hydrangea arborescens 'Incrediball'

It's June and summer has finally arrived! Unfortunately, the abundant spring rains are continuing. I may sound like a broken record, but it has been WET! How wet, you ask?  Well, according to the National Centers for Environmental Information the last 12 months (June 2018-May 2019) in the contiguous U.S. have been the wettest on record. With records going back to 1895. We have also experienced the wettest January to May period in U.S. history. June typically can be another wet month, so we may break another 12 month record, only time will tell.

Mother nature's abundant amount of rainfall has been enjoyed by the newly planted summer annuals.  We get all of these annuals from Roger and Linda Feist at West Hills Greenhouse in Delhi.  The Delhi area has the nickname of "Floral Paradise of Ohio," and for good reason. At one time there were approximately 60 operating greenhouses in Delhi, now there are around 6. Here at WHCC we are trying to keep this nickname alive by purchasing our annuals from a local distributor and taking pride in our horticulture program to help keep the West Side the "floral side" of Cincinnati. We incorporate many tropical annuals into our designs such as: new guinea impatiens, cannas, elephant ears, crotons, caladiums, pygmy date palms, and pentas. They are just starting to root in, and with adequate moisture and fertilizer they should double in size in the next month.

Pink cannas, white caladium, sumo petunias, english ivy, and dragon wing begonias in pots

yellow marigolds, gomphrena 'fireworks', and canna australia by pool

crotons by 11 tee
 June is a great time for the perennial and shrub flowers as well. The bed behind #11 tee is filling in nicely with the perennial flowers starting to show. The incrediball hydrangeas are coming into bloom and can be viewed anytime while enjoying a meal on the back patio. Our president, Mr Oberklaus, had the idea of putting in bamboo as a screen for the fence holes that run parallel to the street. The right of #12 is our test plot, and after a pretty harsh winter the bamboo is looking healthy.


#11 landscape bed

Incerdiball hydrangeas just beginning to bloom

Bamboo: spectabilis and yellow grove by 12 fence

next project for the landscape department. To be continued...

On the turf side, the rainfall has increased our spray program. We are having to make bi-weekly spray applications to keep ahead of fungal diseases. One such disease that effects poa annua and bentgrass is anthracnose. Basal rot anthracnose, specifically, occurs during cool wet springs with overcast conditions right after peak flowering. We were able to keep the disease off of fairways, tees, and greens with diligent spraying, but the rough fell prey. We had to move up our rough spray application (usually first spray is end of June) to combat this, and we are applying a fungicide combined with a high nitrogen fertilizer to the play rough; however, it is impossible to spray the entire rough without having a budget close to Augusta National. 

Anthracnose in the rough in front of #9 fairway


The irrigation system has not been used as of late, but significant maintenance has been accomplished in the form of leaks and computer issues. Currently, we have replaced 2 face plates, a modem, repaired 3 bell-end pipe leaks, and 4 foot valves. With over 1000 heads, this comes with the territory  but this year has already been a busy year for the irrigation department. Hopefully, the kinks will be out by the time the dry, hot mid-summer weather arrives.
Bell-end pipe leak right of #2 green
A new roller has been purchased to help with our greens maintenance program. It is a newer salsco roller that will replace our old one that was purchased in the 1990s. It is bigger with a rolling swath of 73", weighs 1180 lbs, and has a ground pressure of 7 p.s.i. Also, it can go up to 11 mph helping us to roll faster to stay ahead of morning play.

New roller in action
Finally the practice tee is starting to show signs of wear and tear. The grounds crew would like to remind everyone of the proper divot pattern on the practice tees. They should be in a linear pattern for 20 shots spaced around 2 to 4 inches apart. We have also included a new sign at the range for a friendly reminder.

Not a good divot pattern on our practice tee. It will take more time for this to heal, possibly months

Three weeks after a good divot pattern on the lower tee. Notice how quickly they fill in! 
Brad Piecuch
Assistant Superintendent/Horticulturist

Friday, May 24, 2019

Late Spring Aeration


Deep, solid tine aeration

Deep, solid tine aeration was completed on Tuesday, May 28th. A contractor using a pull behind aerating unit with 5/16" solid tines was used on all of the greens. The tines go into the soil around 8" to 10" inches. We aerate greens three times a year; deep, solid tine aerate in the spring, needle tine aerate in mid-summer, and core aerate in the early fall. The benefits of aeration are as follows:

  • Decreases organic matter (thatch) which lessens disease presence, and helps water and nutrients to penetrate into the root zone.
  • Alleviates soil compaction caused by foot traffic.
  • Helps to create a smooth putting surface
  • Helps with water drainage, especially on soil based greens.
  • Promotes healthy and deep roots helping the turf get through the hot and stressful summer months




topdressing after aerating

aeration holes


Aeration has to be done when the grass is growing to minimize damage and allow for a quick recovery back to optimal playing conditions. Sand topdressing will be applied after aeration. I wrote about the benefits of topdressing in a previous post. In short, aeration needs to be done to maintain a healthy green. There will be a short term impact on playing conditions, yet within a week, the conditions will be improved. 

For more information click here for a very informative USGA article on aerating.

Thursday, May 2, 2019

Singing in the Rain?

   Singing in the rain was a 1952 film starring Gene Kelly that showcased the star actor enjoying a nice spring rainstorm. Trudging through the rain may be a better title for the way the grounds department is currently dealing with the abundant amount of rainfall that has descended upon the course. After a 2018 that went down as one of the wettest years on record, 2019, so far, has started where 2018 left off. The first 4 months have been the fifth wettest on record with over 23”. April is typically our wettest month of the year and we were over an inch above normal for that month. We were hoping that April showers would bring May flowers, but the current forecast is looking like the present month will just bring more showers. This much rain hinders us on many of the jobs that we need to get accomplished. Mowing is one of our top priorities this time of year and has to get done, especially on our putting greens. Letting the greens go longer then a couple of days without mowing could be disastrous for the bentgrass, causing scalping, slowing down green speed,  and encouraging more poa annua to take hold. So we have to be aggressive and not let the grass turn into a jungle; that breaks mower belts, and scalps turf.

Our new pond on #18 fairway



  In between monsoons, we were able to get other work done. One of the jobs accomplished was fertilizing all of our rough areas. We use a 13-0-0 fertilizer with dimension to control crabgrass. We put this down using a pro gator and a lely spreader. This greens up the rough and helps it to thicken up with new growth. The dimension is a preventative crabgrass control that will keep the crabgrass from germinating in many of these areas for up to 3 months. Next up, tees and fairways.


Mike Westendorf applying rough fertilizer



  Also, we have begun our greens spraying program. Our first application consisted of some nitrogen, and iron that help in the overall health of the greens. Also a chemical was sprayed to suppress diseases such as dollar spot, and cool season brown patch. Lastly a plant growth regulator was added to suppress poa annua and slow down growth. Fairways and tees will be sprayed in the near future.
The boom sprayer ready for its first run


  Tree work has again made its way on our to do list, but this time it comes in the form of blowing off spring time debris. The maple seeds (samaras) and oak flowers are abundant this time of year and have to be blown off before mowing and sometimes a couple of more times in the afternoon. Also, a branch from the honeylocust tree near #9 fairway bunker was removed because it was blocking shots hit from inside the sand trap.
Oak flowers covering a green

Red Maple helicopter seeds covering a green

Honeylocust branch removed


  On the horticulture side, the tulips have put on their show and are ready to be removed to make way for the summer annuals. After the tulips are pulled out they will be placed by the grounds department building and anyone that would like to enjoy them in their own gardens can take one, two, three, or a hundred of them home. The bloom cycle continues to roll on with the hawthorn trees, buckeye trees, rhododendrons, azaleas, dogwoods, and spanish bluebells stealing the show.  The landscape bed behind three green was designed to have an Augusta type feel. The azaleas and dogwoods that are common at the Masters are now here at WHCC and look very nice, in bloom, as a backdrop behind #3 green. The hydrangeas will bloom for the summer months, and this landscape bed should get bigger and better with every passing year. The summer annuals will be filling in the clubhouse beds in the next coming weeks, and hopefully mother nature will turn off the faucet and allow us to stop Trudging in the rain!

#3 green landscape bed



Spanish bluebells in bloom



Brad Piecuch
Assistant Superintendent/Horticulturist





Tuesday, April 16, 2019

Topdressing

 I want to give an update pertaining to the topdressing that was accomplished on the greens today. There are many benefits to sand topdressing and they include:


  1. Improving the smoothness of the greens, making the green faster after a couple of days.
  2. Decreases thatch
  3. Decreases disease presence
  4. Fills in unfixed ball divots
  5. Helps with better drainage
  We accomplish this by towing a topdressing machine with a gator pro cart. After the sand is applied it has to be drug in with a drag mat, the sand is then watered in, and the next day the greens are mowed with old walk behind or old riding reel mowers to collect any excess sand.

Topdressing the putting green

Sand on #17 green after topdressing

#17 green after sand is drug in with a drag mat

  The putting greens will be slower for a couple of days after we top dress. They will speed up after the sand works its way into the root zone and fills in the divots. Ultimately, the speed of the greens will increase and will help the green speed stay more consistent moving forward. We plan to do this practice on three week intervals, dependent on the weather and special Monday events.

For more information on topdressing click here

Thursday, April 11, 2019

April Color

Tulips in bloom
  The spring annuals are in full swing at WHCC. The daffodils are in full bloom, the tulips are putting on flowers, and the pots and window boxes are filled with pansies, tulips, and hyacinths. Many flowering trees and shrubs are in full spring color, such as, magnolias, redbuds, pears, serviceberries, and viburnums.  As the temperature warms many other plants will put on blooms and it is looking like the tulips will be in full bloom for Easter Sunday.

 

Daffodils in full bloom

Pansies, hyacinths (good fragrance), and tulips in pots
Appalachian Red Redbud behind #9 green
Lavender Twist Redbud

Tulips starting to bloom




Saucer Magnolia in bloom

Star Magnolia in bloom

White daffodils
 
  Many of you may have noticed the new landscape bed we put in behind #11 green. The plants included in this design are an autumn brilliance serviceberry tree, mini mauvette hydrangeas, Blazing star kobold, coreopsis 'zagreb', and karl foerster feather reed grass. The serviceberry is currently in full bloom, but all the other shrubs and perennials are just coming out of winter dormancy. They should fill in nicely in the upcoming months.
New landscape bed #11 green


  On the turf side, much of the cool season grass is exploding out of its winter dormancy. However as the grass grows so does the springtime weeds. Some of these weeds include dandelions, purple deadnettle, chickweed and violet. One of the most invasive spring weeds is lesser celandine. It is a short lived perennial that is on the rise in our area. It is a non native plant brought here from Europe in the 1800s. It blooms in the spring, then dies down to the ground in the summer and returns the following spring as an expanded colony. It forms a dense mat that chokes out many of our native woodland plants. We are currently making herbicide applications to eliminate this weed and the other springtime weeds that invade the golf course.

Lesser celandine in the woods by 4 tee

Dandelions 
  Another one of our "favorite" turfgrass weeds is putting on seed heads and is easy to spot this time of year. Poa annua (annual bluegrass)  is spread all throughout the golf course and is much more difficult to control then the other broadleaf weeds. It is a winter annual that puts out seed in the spring, dies in the heat of the summer, and germinates again in the cooler temperatures of autumn. It differs from kentucky bluegrass by its lighter green color and has a light color ligule. We do use some chemicals to suppress its growth but it is very difficult to fully eradicate. I am sure I will have more to say about this plant during the summer months.

Poa annua seed heads

Poa annua and Kentucky bluegrass seed heads mixed together

   Some areas of the course were torn up because of wear and tear or because of the late season ice storm with the subsequent cleanup work. Over the last couple of weeks a repair crew has laid down new fescue sod in many of these areas and in some of the stump hole areas.

Fescue sod added around #18 bunker face

    The irrigation system is now up and running. To accomplish this we had to turn on the main valve, pressurize the pumps and the system to get up to 100 psi, and bleed out the excess air by turning on each irrigation head. A couple of heads had to be replaced because of bad seals and water pressure damage but now the system is ready to go, once it stops raining.

Spring startup of the irrigation system

 Finally, I wanted to write a little about our greens maintenance program that is under way. We have verticutted the greens. This consists of slicing grooves into the green with a triplex riding mower with a slicing blade attachment. This stimulates turf growth, tightens up the turf, improves smoothness, and opens up the turf's root zone which alleviates some compaction allowing for more nutrient uptake. (for more about verticutting click here) We, also, will be topdressing in the next couple of weeks. This will help smooth out the green, increase green speed, and decrease disease presence.  Fertilization is also imperative for maintaining a healthy green and we will be beginning that process soon with liquid and granular applications.

  This year we will be rolling the greens more often to increase green speed. We have two rollers. A light weight triplex roller and a heavier salco roller. The light weight roller is faster and less impact-full on the turf. It increases the green speed by about a foot. The heavier salsco roller takes more time to use but increases the green speed by about 1.25 feet, and it makes the green faster for a longer period of time. Both of these rollers will be used often during the golf season to maintain a consistent green speed.
Green after veticutting

Light weight roller

Salsco roller


Brad Piecuch
Assistant Superintendent/Horticulturist